I would be horrified to find out the amount of hours I spent fixated on a small computer screen, being transported to Rajatamnern Stadium when in real life I sat in uninspiring property law lectures. In saying that, I wouldn’t say I “wasted” all that time. Every YouTube clip was super exciting, educational, technically unparalleled, and I spent an embarrassing amount of time fantasising about using some of those groovy moves those fighters used. And having spent countless hours YouTubing this prestigious institute, and becoming accustomed to the monotonous Thai commentators who suddenly become riotous in the 4th and 5th round, the animated spectators and gamblers raring in harmony – I thought I knew what my experience was going to be like. Nonetheless, it felt surreal FINALLY being able to see the real deal – I couldn’t contain my excitement!
And some things you can get the same experience, sitting at home in front of a computer screen, and somethings you can’t. A traditional Muay Thai fight at Rajatamnern stadium was one of those things you had to be there, breath it, see it, and taste yourself.
Post-work on a Wednesday evening, I was reunited with a fellow Kiwi friend who I’d made promises to go watch some Muay Thai action with. After severely underestimating how bad Bangkok rush hour traffic can be, we arrived at Rajatamnern 30 or so minutes after the matches had begun. It seemed normal to be fashionably late anyway – the first three matches were young-guns weighing only 30 – 40kgs, warming up the crowd and getting the night kicked off. The stadium only began to fill up around the 3rd and 4th fights.
You have the choice of buying 3rd tier, 2nd tier or ringside tickets. 2nd tier is the rowdiest and most hazardous place to be, with frantic gamblers roaring and shouting, so some may find the experience somewhat uncomfortable. Ringside seemed to be tourist central, but meh, can’t deny the fact that you’re a tourist eh. We opted for ringside to get some close-up action, because hey, you don’t get a chance like this often!
The atmosphere in the stadium was insane. The energy, the exaggerated hand movements and the shouting in the place was infectious. I’ve been to rugby matches, seen the All Blacks play at Westpac Stadium, been to baseball games in Japan in a stadium 10 times the size of Rajatamnern, and I’ve even been blessed enough to see the legend Messi play at Camp Nou – and I’m not saying this was better than all those amazing once in a lifetime experiences, but it was simply incomparable, and I’d never seen anything quite like it.
For starters, I knew about the gambling culture before I went, but seeing it for myself was something else. Likeminded tourists were going back and fourth filming the fights, then switching to filming the animated gamblers. In between rounds, you see gamblers make hand gestures to each other, trying to find people to make bets with, and putting up special signals for blue, red and odds. So pretty much be careful about putting your hand up in the stadium, because one wrong move and you could be in a bet with a gamble king.
Attitudes towards the gambling culture differs – some say it’s corrupt, and others say it keeps the sport honest because the judges are accountable to the angry gamblers. I personally think it makes Muay Thai what it is, and watching the gamblers go nuts was half the fun of the night. Without the ridiculously huge sums placed on this sport, it probably wouldn’t have grown into the widespread thing it is today. I found a super interesting article that talks about gambling on Muay Thai in Thailand, and how some people do it as a full-time job. So check it out here if you’re interested!
Even though everything going on the stadium including gambling was ‘technically legal’ – the underground, dark and dingy feel made things seem semi-illegal and badass. It was like I joined an exclusive secret society, meeting up every few nights to drink, gamble, and watch some solid scraps. I felt like I joined Brad Pitt’s Fight Club. (Clearly breaking rule #1 DO NOT TALK ABOUT FIGHT CLUB) Though gambling is illegal in Thailand, officials turn a semi-blind eye on it, and big stadiums can even gain consent from the authorities.
And the caliber of the fighters was simply incomparable to any fight night I’d seen. Every fighter was a true warrior, abs glowing and enhanced by their sweat like a Roman gladiator (I would confidently bet my savings on a Thai fighter over Russel Crowe in The Gladiator despite the weight difference), not even flinching when they collided shins with each other, or when they took a sharp elbow to the temple. Their expressions didn’t change even when they nearly got KO’d. Sooooo much respect for the local fighters.
Overall, it’s definitely something I recommend even to people who don’t know a thing about Muay Thai. (Mai Tai? What is that?) I mean, you’d go watch rugby in NZ even if you weren’t into it, and baseball in a massive stadium in the States, right? Muay Thai with all its longstanding traditions gives you an insight into Thailand, and I 100% intend to go back there before I leave!
…..and also I realised NEXT TIME I WILL BE FIGHTING IN A SIMILAR STADIUM :O :O :O EXCITING!!! But made me shit scared seeing the sheer amount of KO’s. I wonder what odds people will be betting on the green-looking foreign girl who looks feeble AF? Wish me luck!
Lost in Gustation 
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